It was a busy weekend at London Fashion Week SS24. Boiling hot weather on Saturday swiftly transitioned into downpouring rain by Sunday afternoon in typical British fashion. Nonetheless, this didn’t stop show attendees donning their finest garb to support the best of UK fashion design talent.
Heather Gramston, senior head of women’s and menswear buying, Browns commented on her highlights from the weekend, telling Drapers: “Jonathan’s [Anderson] soft draping on dresses, woven track pants, leather bombers and longline trenches stood out at JW Anderson. Molly Goddard showed an element of sexiness with a focus on deep back detailing while 16 Arlington’s chic collection reimagined luxe fabrics and iridescent palettes with sharp tailoring, the opening look being my personal favourite. Last but not least, Sinead O’Dwyer’s conversation at the RCA, was a highlight, as she talked through her design process and pattern cutting, reimagining the uniform for multiple sizes and shapes.”
Clemmie Harris, head of women’s and childrenswear at Harrods commented: “Roksanda, Erdem and Emilia Wickstead always resonate incredibly well with our clientele in addition to our hugely loyal Burberry customer. The strength of the collections we are seeing come through this weekend, are showing us that next season will be no different.”
Drapers reports on the shows from Saturday and Sunday below.
Saturday 16 September
Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi opened Saturday’s schedule of presentations with a catwalk showcase staged in the leafy garden of St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden. Known for his elegant tailoring, the Korean-born Royal College of Art MA womenswear alumna’s SS24 collection was inspired by the use of lighting techniques in painting from 19th-century impressionist artist Berthe Morisot – one of the few female painters of the art movement. Bold hues of sunflower yellow and poppy red clashed with subdued shades of greyish-blue, beige and head-to-toe ivory, all emphasised by the bright sunlight of the early morning.
JW Anderson
Showing on Saturday morning at Camden’s Roundhouse, celebrities and industry insiders alike flocked to JW Anderson’s SS24 show. This season saw designer Jonathan Anderson flex his renowned innovative creativity even further, with hooded sweatshirts and smartly tailored shorts being hand moulded out of clay. He also continued the use of plastic bag illusion fabric (as seen last year, notably in a goldfish bag style dress) but this time in brightly coloured padded tops and trousers. Strips of fabric in silver glitter were weaved together to form calf length evening skirts, and white feathers spilled out of oversized bomber jackets and belts around the top of baggy cargo pants. Accessories were of course on the agenda, with the Corner Bag being reimagined in citrus shades with tonal chain links.
Roksanda SS24
Roksanda
Set on the roof of the Barbican Centre, prominent fashion industry figures including Vogue’s Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful, designer Christopher Kane and model Erin O’Connor, gathered in the sweltering heat to view MBE awarded designer Roksanda Ilincic SS24 presentation. Noted as one of the designer’s favourite places in London, an opera singer stepped onto the roof in full chorus wearing a voluminous, finely pleated lilac cape dress to kick off the show. She continued to provide the soundtrack throughout, where models weaved amongst the florally decorated benches of attendees wearing flowing, draped gowns in blues, pinks and greens, which dragged along the floor behind them. High sculptural hats paired with grey double breasted suits also had flowing fabric trains, which danced in the air behind the models as they walked. Ostrich feather shoes added texture to the billowing garments, as did glossy transparent overlays on dresses and full skirts. The finale received several audible “bravos” from actress Vanessa Redgrave who was sat in the front row, with fellow actress Joely Richardson and costume designer Sandy Powell.
Feben
Central Saint Martins alumna Feben presented a SS24 collection comprised of dresses ranging from printed sheer gowns to Feben’s signature ‘twist’ dress, distinguished by protruding elements of textured fabric. The Ethiopian-Swedish, London-based designer printed the silhouette of her own body in brown or yellow on a minimalist white sleeveless dress – giving a whole new meaning to “throwing oneself into one’s work”.
16Arlington
Designer Marco Capaldo’s SS24 show for 16Arlington was entitled “There is no such thing as a bad coincidence”. Guests were individually seated on white cubes which snaked around the room, creating a maze-like path for the cast of models. The label doubled down on its recent introduction of leather handbags, in red patent and white leather, as well as oversized, belted clutches. Elsewhere, the collection saw plenty of sharp tailoring as the brand continues to evolve from its initial party focus. Well-cut jackets and pleated trousers were shown on men and women, in charcoal grey and black. Staying true to its roots, a smattering of sequins ran throughout the collection, but crept in strongly towards the end. Silver discs hung all over low rise skirts and strap tops, as worn by model and activist Adwoa Aboah who closed the show.
Clemmie Harris, head of women’s and childrenswear at Harrods, told Drapers: “I really loved the newer direction of 16 Arlington it felt like an evolution for the brand but all whilst staying true to [its] aesthetic. There was more daywear than ever before and executed in a totally wearable way; a wash of ivory, grey and black where each piece felt entirely special and elevated through the use of clever fabrications playing with volume and subtle detailing. I absolutely loved this collection and think the loyal 16 Arlington customer will too.”
Labrum SS24
Labrum
For the staging of his SS24 collection showcase, Labrum founder and creative director Foday Dumbuya chose the former headquarters of the early-20th century Port of London Authority – currently the Four Seasons Hotel in Tower Hill – where immigrants arriving in London had to pass through to obtain right-to-work documentation. Having reintroduced womenswear at February’s London Fashion Week AW23, Dumbuya strengthened the category for SS24 with new iterations of its signature suiting – waistcoat and trousers or skirt co-ords – in geometric prints and a multi-tiered burgundy gown. Standout pieces in menswear included blue, red and olive-green knitted vests with coordinating headwear, white double-breasted blazers with matching slim-line trousers and a navy jacquard suit worn by former England national team football player Ian Wright, who opened the show with his first foray into catwalk modelling. As part of the presentation, Labrum debuted its collaboration with sportswear giant Adidas in the form of limited-edition Samba trainers.
Ashley Williams
As announced in August, designer Ashley Williams returned to the runway with support from Fashion East after a two year hiatus. A loyal legion of fans turned up in North London to welcome her back including fashion personality Alexa Chung, Euphoria actress Chloe Cherry and streetwear brand Palace founder Lev Tanju, who is also Williams’ partner. The dramatic concrete setting of Collins Music Hall saw a grim reaper style figure open the show, complete with hooded cloak and wooden staff. The collection was quintessentially Williams — caps emblazoned with “I heart me”, Peter Pan collar dresses and patterned fuzzy knitwear were all styled with Ugg boots, layered belts and knee length wigs. Williams has never taken herself too seriously, although a T-shirt with the words “You must die to be born again” felt dark, especially considering she cited personal reasons behind the brand’s hiatus. Regardless, the show’s finale was celebrated with resounding applause, whoops and cheers from the audience, whose appetite for her tongue-in-cheek designs and finger on the pulse styling was firmly satiated.
Sunday 17 September
Masha Popova
Ukrainian designer Masha Popova opened Sunday’s presentations with a dirt track racing-inspired presentation at the Old Selfridges Hotel’s Newgen space, featuring her signature muddy tyre track prints on Y2K-inspired low-rise denim in shades of lilac, blue and olive green, worn with scarf halter tops or a sheer white graphic T-shirt.
JE Cai SS24
J E Cai
Popova’s ode to the Noughts was followed by J E Cai’s tailoring masterclass at Southbank’s OXO Tower. Featuring delicate shades of ivory and powder blue on clean lines and an emphasis on modularity – where zippers and buttons can be adjusted to create unique fastening combinations – the Chinese-born Royal College of Art alumna presented a timeless collection of versatile looks.
Tove SS24
Tove
It was newcomer Tove’s second season showing at London Fashion Week. Set in Southbank’s Hayward Gallery, the clean white interior reflected the quiet luxury of the collection. Tonal suiting and long line dresses were offset by voluminous outerwear, with statement trenches in white lace and yellow tartan. Models clasped handbags in the form of oversized clutches, featuring knot detailing in satin fabric. Pops of red were seen in flat mules, which served as the label’s debut into footwear, being handcrafted in Portugal and Italy. The two founders were previously heads of design and buying at Topshop, meaning they have a thorough knowledge of the contemporary womenswear consumer.
Sinead Gorey SS24
Sinead Gorey
Designer Sinead Gorey made her London Fashion Week debut for SS24, with an on schedule show on the afternoon of Sunday, 17 September. Founded in 2019 with support from the BFC, its aesthetic is largely based on rave culture with current stockists including Selfridges, Flannels and Ssense. For this collection, Gorey took inspiration from 1990s London and Geri Halliwell from The Spice Girls. Models wore Union Jack knee high leather boots, produced in collaboration with Buffalo, accompanied by matching corset tops, bustle skirts and even denim bikini sets. Continuing the theme of British icons, a pair of jeans featured an all over photographic print of Kate Moss at Glastonbury festival in 2005. Elsewhere, the collection leaned heavily on colourful lace body-con catsuits and dresses, perfect for the brand’s party-loving customers.
Yuhan Wang
Back at the Newgen space, London-based Chinese designer Yuhan Wang showcased a playful collection of white lace looks, ranging from bloomers and knee-high socks to breezy summer dresses with strawberry and cat motifs. Standout pieces included a deconstructured straw-hem asymmetrical skirt and top set as well as a blue fishing net dress embellished with seashells.
KNWLS
Fresh off the launch of her much hyped collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier which launched at New York Fashion Week last week, Charlotte Knowles’ namesake label took to the London Fashion Week stage on Sunday evening. EuroJournal green and chocolate brown rubble covered the floor of the long-stretching runway, hinting at the collection to come. Distressed leather jackets, corsets and thigh high boots were all shown in both colourways, accessorised with patterned headscarves and “fang” shaped handbags. Swinging beaded dresses and block coloured tangerine looks also featured on the runway. Appearances from internet sensation Mia Khalifa and dancer Tilly XXX got the audience whooping and cheering, making perfect casting choices for the brand’s Y2K aesthetic.
It was a busy weekend at London Fashion Week SS24. Boiling hot weather on Saturday swiftly transitioned into downpouring rain by Sunday afternoon in typical British fashion. Nonetheless, this didn’t stop show attendees donning their finest garb to support the best of UK fashion design talent.
Heather Gramston, senior head of women’s and menswear buying, Browns commented on her highlights from the weekend, telling Drapers: “Jonathan’s [Anderson] soft draping on dresses, woven track pants, leather bombers and longline trenches stood out at JW Anderson. Molly Goddard showed an element of sexiness with a focus on deep back detailing while 16 Arlington’s chic collection reimagined luxe fabrics and iridescent palettes with sharp tailoring, the opening look being my personal favourite. Last but not least, Sinead O’Dwyer’s conversation at the RCA, was a highlight, as she talked through her design process and pattern cutting, reimagining the uniform for multiple sizes and shapes.”
Clemmie Harris, head of women’s and childrenswear at Harrods commented: “Roksanda, Erdem and Emilia Wickstead always resonate incredibly well with our clientele in addition to our hugely loyal Burberry customer. The strength of the collections we are seeing come through this weekend, are showing us that next season will be no different.”
Drapers reports on the shows from Saturday and Sunday below.
Saturday 16 September
Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi opened Saturday’s schedule of presentations with a catwalk showcase staged in the leafy garden of St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden. Known for his elegant tailoring, the Korean-born Royal College of Art MA womenswear alumna’s SS24 collection was inspired by the use of lighting techniques in painting from 19th-century impressionist artist Berthe Morisot – one of the few female painters of the art movement. Bold hues of sunflower yellow and poppy red clashed with subdued shades of greyish-blue, beige and head-to-toe ivory, all emphasised by the bright sunlight of the early morning.
JW Anderson
Showing on Saturday morning at Camden’s Roundhouse, celebrities and industry insiders alike flocked to JW Anderson’s SS24 show. This season saw designer Jonathan Anderson flex his renowned innovative creativity even further, with hooded sweatshirts and smartly tailored shorts being hand moulded out of clay. He also continued the use of plastic bag illusion fabric (as seen last year, notably in a goldfish bag style dress) but this time in brightly coloured padded tops and trousers. Strips of fabric in silver glitter were weaved together to form calf length evening skirts, and white feathers spilled out of oversized bomber jackets and belts around the top of baggy cargo pants. Accessories were of course on the agenda, with the Corner Bag being reimagined in citrus shades with tonal chain links.
Roksanda SS24
Roksanda
Set on the roof of the Barbican Centre, prominent fashion industry figures including Vogue’s Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful, designer Christopher Kane and model Erin O’Connor, gathered in the sweltering heat to view MBE awarded designer Roksanda Ilincic SS24 presentation. Noted as one of the designer’s favourite places in London, an opera singer stepped onto the roof in full chorus wearing a voluminous, finely pleated lilac cape dress to kick off the show. She continued to provide the soundtrack throughout, where models weaved amongst the florally decorated benches of attendees wearing flowing, draped gowns in blues, pinks and greens, which dragged along the floor behind them. High sculptural hats paired with grey double breasted suits also had flowing fabric trains, which danced in the air behind the models as they walked. Ostrich feather shoes added texture to the billowing garments, as did glossy transparent overlays on dresses and full skirts. The finale received several audible “bravos” from actress Vanessa Redgrave who was sat in the front row, with fellow actress Joely Richardson and costume designer Sandy Powell.
Feben
Central Saint Martins alumna Feben presented a SS24 collection comprised of dresses ranging from printed sheer gowns to Feben’s signature ‘twist’ dress, distinguished by protruding elements of textured fabric. The Ethiopian-Swedish, London-based designer printed the silhouette of her own body in brown or yellow on a minimalist white sleeveless dress – giving a whole new meaning to “throwing oneself into one’s work”.
16Arlington
Designer Marco Capaldo’s SS24 show for 16Arlington was entitled “There is no such thing as a bad coincidence”. Guests were individually seated on white cubes which snaked around the room, creating a maze-like path for the cast of models. The label doubled down on its recent introduction of leather handbags, in red patent and white leather, as well as oversized, belted clutches. Elsewhere, the collection saw plenty of sharp tailoring as the brand continues to evolve from its initial party focus. Well-cut jackets and pleated trousers were shown on men and women, in charcoal grey and black. Staying true to its roots, a smattering of sequins ran throughout the collection, but crept in strongly towards the end. Silver discs hung all over low rise skirts and strap tops, as worn by model and activist Adwoa Aboah who closed the show.
Clemmie Harris, head of women’s and childrenswear at Harrods, told Drapers: “I really loved the newer direction of 16 Arlington it felt like an evolution for the brand but all whilst staying true to [its] aesthetic. There was more daywear than ever before and executed in a totally wearable way; a wash of ivory, grey and black where each piece felt entirely special and elevated through the use of clever fabrications playing with volume and subtle detailing. I absolutely loved this collection and think the loyal 16 Arlington customer will too.”
Labrum SS24
Labrum
For the staging of his SS24 collection showcase, Labrum founder and creative director Foday Dumbuya chose the former headquarters of the early-20th century Port of London Authority – currently the Four Seasons Hotel in Tower Hill – where immigrants arriving in London had to pass through to obtain right-to-work documentation. Having reintroduced womenswear at February’s London Fashion Week AW23, Dumbuya strengthened the category for SS24 with new iterations of its signature suiting – waistcoat and trousers or skirt co-ords – in geometric prints and a multi-tiered burgundy gown. Standout pieces in menswear included blue, red and olive-green knitted vests with coordinating headwear, white double-breasted blazers with matching slim-line trousers and a navy jacquard suit worn by former England national team football player Ian Wright, who opened the show with his first foray into catwalk modelling. As part of the presentation, Labrum debuted its collaboration with sportswear giant Adidas in the form of limited-edition Samba trainers.
Ashley Williams
As announced in August, designer Ashley Williams returned to the runway with support from Fashion East after a two year hiatus. A loyal legion of fans turned up in North London to welcome her back including fashion personality Alexa Chung, Euphoria actress Chloe Cherry and streetwear brand Palace founder Lev Tanju, who is also Williams’ partner. The dramatic concrete setting of Collins Music Hall saw a grim reaper style figure open the show, complete with hooded cloak and wooden staff. The collection was quintessentially Williams — caps emblazoned with “I heart me”, Peter Pan collar dresses and patterned fuzzy knitwear were all styled with Ugg boots, layered belts and knee length wigs. Williams has never taken herself too seriously, although a T-shirt with the words “You must die to be born again” felt dark, especially considering she cited personal reasons behind the brand’s hiatus. Regardless, the show’s finale was celebrated with resounding applause, whoops and cheers from the audience, whose appetite for her tongue-in-cheek designs and finger on the pulse styling was firmly satiated.
Sunday 17 September
Masha Popova
Ukrainian designer Masha Popova opened Sunday’s presentations with a dirt track racing-inspired presentation at the Old Selfridges Hotel’s Newgen space, featuring her signature muddy tyre track prints on Y2K-inspired low-rise denim in shades of lilac, blue and olive green, worn with scarf halter tops or a sheer white graphic T-shirt.
JE Cai SS24
J E Cai
Popova’s ode to the Noughts was followed by J E Cai’s tailoring masterclass at Southbank’s OXO Tower. Featuring delicate shades of ivory and powder blue on clean lines and an emphasis on modularity – where zippers and buttons can be adjusted to create unique fastening combinations – the Chinese-born Royal College of Art alumna presented a timeless collection of versatile looks.
Tove SS24
Tove
It was newcomer Tove’s second season showing at London Fashion Week. Set in Southbank’s Hayward Gallery, the clean white interior reflected the quiet luxury of the collection. Tonal suiting and long line dresses were offset by voluminous outerwear, with statement trenches in white lace and yellow tartan. Models clasped handbags in the form of oversized clutches, featuring knot detailing in satin fabric. Pops of red were seen in flat mules, which served as the label’s debut into footwear, being handcrafted in Portugal and Italy. The two founders were previously heads of design and buying at Topshop, meaning they have a thorough knowledge of the contemporary womenswear consumer.
Sinead Gorey SS24
Sinead Gorey
Designer Sinead Gorey made her London Fashion Week debut for SS24, with an on schedule show on the afternoon of Sunday, 17 September. Founded in 2019 with support from the BFC, its aesthetic is largely based on rave culture with current stockists including Selfridges, Flannels and Ssense. For this collection, Gorey took inspiration from 1990s London and Geri Halliwell from The Spice Girls. Models wore Union Jack knee high leather boots, produced in collaboration with Buffalo, accompanied by matching corset tops, bustle skirts and even denim bikini sets. Continuing the theme of British icons, a pair of jeans featured an all over photographic print of Kate Moss at Glastonbury festival in 2005. Elsewhere, the collection leaned heavily on colourful lace body-con catsuits and dresses, perfect for the brand’s party-loving customers.
Yuhan Wang
Back at the Newgen space, London-based Chinese designer Yuhan Wang showcased a playful collection of white lace looks, ranging from bloomers and knee-high socks to breezy summer dresses with strawberry and cat motifs. Standout pieces included a deconstructured straw-hem asymmetrical skirt and top set as well as a blue fishing net dress embellished with seashells.
KNWLS
Fresh off the launch of her much hyped collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier which launched at New York Fashion Week last week, Charlotte Knowles’ namesake label took to the London Fashion Week stage on Sunday evening. EuroJournal green and chocolate brown rubble covered the floor of the long-stretching runway, hinting at the collection to come. Distressed leather jackets, corsets and thigh high boots were all shown in both colourways, accessorised with patterned headscarves and “fang” shaped handbags. Swinging beaded dresses and block coloured tangerine looks also featured on the runway. Appearances from internet sensation Mia Khalifa and dancer Tilly XXX got the audience whooping and cheering, making perfect casting choices for the brand’s Y2K aesthetic.
It was a busy weekend at London Fashion Week SS24. Boiling hot weather on Saturday swiftly transitioned into downpouring rain by Sunday afternoon in typical British fashion. Nonetheless, this didn’t stop show attendees donning their finest garb to support the best of UK fashion design talent.
Heather Gramston, senior head of women’s and menswear buying, Browns commented on her highlights from the weekend, telling Drapers: “Jonathan’s [Anderson] soft draping on dresses, woven track pants, leather bombers and longline trenches stood out at JW Anderson. Molly Goddard showed an element of sexiness with a focus on deep back detailing while 16 Arlington’s chic collection reimagined luxe fabrics and iridescent palettes with sharp tailoring, the opening look being my personal favourite. Last but not least, Sinead O’Dwyer’s conversation at the RCA, was a highlight, as she talked through her design process and pattern cutting, reimagining the uniform for multiple sizes and shapes.”
Clemmie Harris, head of women’s and childrenswear at Harrods commented: “Roksanda, Erdem and Emilia Wickstead always resonate incredibly well with our clientele in addition to our hugely loyal Burberry customer. The strength of the collections we are seeing come through this weekend, are showing us that next season will be no different.”
Drapers reports on the shows from Saturday and Sunday below.
Saturday 16 September
Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi opened Saturday’s schedule of presentations with a catwalk showcase staged in the leafy garden of St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden. Known for his elegant tailoring, the Korean-born Royal College of Art MA womenswear alumna’s SS24 collection was inspired by the use of lighting techniques in painting from 19th-century impressionist artist Berthe Morisot – one of the few female painters of the art movement. Bold hues of sunflower yellow and poppy red clashed with subdued shades of greyish-blue, beige and head-to-toe ivory, all emphasised by the bright sunlight of the early morning.
JW Anderson
Showing on Saturday morning at Camden’s Roundhouse, celebrities and industry insiders alike flocked to JW Anderson’s SS24 show. This season saw designer Jonathan Anderson flex his renowned innovative creativity even further, with hooded sweatshirts and smartly tailored shorts being hand moulded out of clay. He also continued the use of plastic bag illusion fabric (as seen last year, notably in a goldfish bag style dress) but this time in brightly coloured padded tops and trousers. Strips of fabric in silver glitter were weaved together to form calf length evening skirts, and white feathers spilled out of oversized bomber jackets and belts around the top of baggy cargo pants. Accessories were of course on the agenda, with the Corner Bag being reimagined in citrus shades with tonal chain links.
Roksanda SS24
Roksanda
Set on the roof of the Barbican Centre, prominent fashion industry figures including Vogue’s Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful, designer Christopher Kane and model Erin O’Connor, gathered in the sweltering heat to view MBE awarded designer Roksanda Ilincic SS24 presentation. Noted as one of the designer’s favourite places in London, an opera singer stepped onto the roof in full chorus wearing a voluminous, finely pleated lilac cape dress to kick off the show. She continued to provide the soundtrack throughout, where models weaved amongst the florally decorated benches of attendees wearing flowing, draped gowns in blues, pinks and greens, which dragged along the floor behind them. High sculptural hats paired with grey double breasted suits also had flowing fabric trains, which danced in the air behind the models as they walked. Ostrich feather shoes added texture to the billowing garments, as did glossy transparent overlays on dresses and full skirts. The finale received several audible “bravos” from actress Vanessa Redgrave who was sat in the front row, with fellow actress Joely Richardson and costume designer Sandy Powell.
Feben
Central Saint Martins alumna Feben presented a SS24 collection comprised of dresses ranging from printed sheer gowns to Feben’s signature ‘twist’ dress, distinguished by protruding elements of textured fabric. The Ethiopian-Swedish, London-based designer printed the silhouette of her own body in brown or yellow on a minimalist white sleeveless dress – giving a whole new meaning to “throwing oneself into one’s work”.
16Arlington
Designer Marco Capaldo’s SS24 show for 16Arlington was entitled “There is no such thing as a bad coincidence”. Guests were individually seated on white cubes which snaked around the room, creating a maze-like path for the cast of models. The label doubled down on its recent introduction of leather handbags, in red patent and white leather, as well as oversized, belted clutches. Elsewhere, the collection saw plenty of sharp tailoring as the brand continues to evolve from its initial party focus. Well-cut jackets and pleated trousers were shown on men and women, in charcoal grey and black. Staying true to its roots, a smattering of sequins ran throughout the collection, but crept in strongly towards the end. Silver discs hung all over low rise skirts and strap tops, as worn by model and activist Adwoa Aboah who closed the show.
Clemmie Harris, head of women’s and childrenswear at Harrods, told Drapers: “I really loved the newer direction of 16 Arlington it felt like an evolution for the brand but all whilst staying true to [its] aesthetic. There was more daywear than ever before and executed in a totally wearable way; a wash of ivory, grey and black where each piece felt entirely special and elevated through the use of clever fabrications playing with volume and subtle detailing. I absolutely loved this collection and think the loyal 16 Arlington customer will too.”
Labrum SS24
Labrum
For the staging of his SS24 collection showcase, Labrum founder and creative director Foday Dumbuya chose the former headquarters of the early-20th century Port of London Authority – currently the Four Seasons Hotel in Tower Hill – where immigrants arriving in London had to pass through to obtain right-to-work documentation. Having reintroduced womenswear at February’s London Fashion Week AW23, Dumbuya strengthened the category for SS24 with new iterations of its signature suiting – waistcoat and trousers or skirt co-ords – in geometric prints and a multi-tiered burgundy gown. Standout pieces in menswear included blue, red and olive-green knitted vests with coordinating headwear, white double-breasted blazers with matching slim-line trousers and a navy jacquard suit worn by former England national team football player Ian Wright, who opened the show with his first foray into catwalk modelling. As part of the presentation, Labrum debuted its collaboration with sportswear giant Adidas in the form of limited-edition Samba trainers.
Ashley Williams
As announced in August, designer Ashley Williams returned to the runway with support from Fashion East after a two year hiatus. A loyal legion of fans turned up in North London to welcome her back including fashion personality Alexa Chung, Euphoria actress Chloe Cherry and streetwear brand Palace founder Lev Tanju, who is also Williams’ partner. The dramatic concrete setting of Collins Music Hall saw a grim reaper style figure open the show, complete with hooded cloak and wooden staff. The collection was quintessentially Williams — caps emblazoned with “I heart me”, Peter Pan collar dresses and patterned fuzzy knitwear were all styled with Ugg boots, layered belts and knee length wigs. Williams has never taken herself too seriously, although a T-shirt with the words “You must die to be born again” felt dark, especially considering she cited personal reasons behind the brand’s hiatus. Regardless, the show’s finale was celebrated with resounding applause, whoops and cheers from the audience, whose appetite for her tongue-in-cheek designs and finger on the pulse styling was firmly satiated.
Sunday 17 September
Masha Popova
Ukrainian designer Masha Popova opened Sunday’s presentations with a dirt track racing-inspired presentation at the Old Selfridges Hotel’s Newgen space, featuring her signature muddy tyre track prints on Y2K-inspired low-rise denim in shades of lilac, blue and olive green, worn with scarf halter tops or a sheer white graphic T-shirt.
JE Cai SS24
J E Cai
Popova’s ode to the Noughts was followed by J E Cai’s tailoring masterclass at Southbank’s OXO Tower. Featuring delicate shades of ivory and powder blue on clean lines and an emphasis on modularity – where zippers and buttons can be adjusted to create unique fastening combinations – the Chinese-born Royal College of Art alumna presented a timeless collection of versatile looks.
Tove SS24
Tove
It was newcomer Tove’s second season showing at London Fashion Week. Set in Southbank’s Hayward Gallery, the clean white interior reflected the quiet luxury of the collection. Tonal suiting and long line dresses were offset by voluminous outerwear, with statement trenches in white lace and yellow tartan. Models clasped handbags in the form of oversized clutches, featuring knot detailing in satin fabric. Pops of red were seen in flat mules, which served as the label’s debut into footwear, being handcrafted in Portugal and Italy. The two founders were previously heads of design and buying at Topshop, meaning they have a thorough knowledge of the contemporary womenswear consumer.
Sinead Gorey SS24
Sinead Gorey
Designer Sinead Gorey made her London Fashion Week debut for SS24, with an on schedule show on the afternoon of Sunday, 17 September. Founded in 2019 with support from the BFC, its aesthetic is largely based on rave culture with current stockists including Selfridges, Flannels and Ssense. For this collection, Gorey took inspiration from 1990s London and Geri Halliwell from The Spice Girls. Models wore Union Jack knee high leather boots, produced in collaboration with Buffalo, accompanied by matching corset tops, bustle skirts and even denim bikini sets. Continuing the theme of British icons, a pair of jeans featured an all over photographic print of Kate Moss at Glastonbury festival in 2005. Elsewhere, the collection leaned heavily on colourful lace body-con catsuits and dresses, perfect for the brand’s party-loving customers.
Yuhan Wang
Back at the Newgen space, London-based Chinese designer Yuhan Wang showcased a playful collection of white lace looks, ranging from bloomers and knee-high socks to breezy summer dresses with strawberry and cat motifs. Standout pieces included a deconstructured straw-hem asymmetrical skirt and top set as well as a blue fishing net dress embellished with seashells.
KNWLS
Fresh off the launch of her much hyped collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier which launched at New York Fashion Week last week, Charlotte Knowles’ namesake label took to the London Fashion Week stage on Sunday evening. EuroJournal green and chocolate brown rubble covered the floor of the long-stretching runway, hinting at the collection to come. Distressed leather jackets, corsets and thigh high boots were all shown in both colourways, accessorised with patterned headscarves and “fang” shaped handbags. Swinging beaded dresses and block coloured tangerine looks also featured on the runway. Appearances from internet sensation Mia Khalifa and dancer Tilly XXX got the audience whooping and cheering, making perfect casting choices for the brand’s Y2K aesthetic.
It was a busy weekend at London Fashion Week SS24. Boiling hot weather on Saturday swiftly transitioned into downpouring rain by Sunday afternoon in typical British fashion. Nonetheless, this didn’t stop show attendees donning their finest garb to support the best of UK fashion design talent.
Heather Gramston, senior head of women’s and menswear buying, Browns commented on her highlights from the weekend, telling Drapers: “Jonathan’s [Anderson] soft draping on dresses, woven track pants, leather bombers and longline trenches stood out at JW Anderson. Molly Goddard showed an element of sexiness with a focus on deep back detailing while 16 Arlington’s chic collection reimagined luxe fabrics and iridescent palettes with sharp tailoring, the opening look being my personal favourite. Last but not least, Sinead O’Dwyer’s conversation at the RCA, was a highlight, as she talked through her design process and pattern cutting, reimagining the uniform for multiple sizes and shapes.”
Clemmie Harris, head of women’s and childrenswear at Harrods commented: “Roksanda, Erdem and Emilia Wickstead always resonate incredibly well with our clientele in addition to our hugely loyal Burberry customer. The strength of the collections we are seeing come through this weekend, are showing us that next season will be no different.”
Drapers reports on the shows from Saturday and Sunday below.
Saturday 16 September
Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi opened Saturday’s schedule of presentations with a catwalk showcase staged in the leafy garden of St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden. Known for his elegant tailoring, the Korean-born Royal College of Art MA womenswear alumna’s SS24 collection was inspired by the use of lighting techniques in painting from 19th-century impressionist artist Berthe Morisot – one of the few female painters of the art movement. Bold hues of sunflower yellow and poppy red clashed with subdued shades of greyish-blue, beige and head-to-toe ivory, all emphasised by the bright sunlight of the early morning.
JW Anderson
Showing on Saturday morning at Camden’s Roundhouse, celebrities and industry insiders alike flocked to JW Anderson’s SS24 show. This season saw designer Jonathan Anderson flex his renowned innovative creativity even further, with hooded sweatshirts and smartly tailored shorts being hand moulded out of clay. He also continued the use of plastic bag illusion fabric (as seen last year, notably in a goldfish bag style dress) but this time in brightly coloured padded tops and trousers. Strips of fabric in silver glitter were weaved together to form calf length evening skirts, and white feathers spilled out of oversized bomber jackets and belts around the top of baggy cargo pants. Accessories were of course on the agenda, with the Corner Bag being reimagined in citrus shades with tonal chain links.
Roksanda SS24
Roksanda
Set on the roof of the Barbican Centre, prominent fashion industry figures including Vogue’s Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful, designer Christopher Kane and model Erin O’Connor, gathered in the sweltering heat to view MBE awarded designer Roksanda Ilincic SS24 presentation. Noted as one of the designer’s favourite places in London, an opera singer stepped onto the roof in full chorus wearing a voluminous, finely pleated lilac cape dress to kick off the show. She continued to provide the soundtrack throughout, where models weaved amongst the florally decorated benches of attendees wearing flowing, draped gowns in blues, pinks and greens, which dragged along the floor behind them. High sculptural hats paired with grey double breasted suits also had flowing fabric trains, which danced in the air behind the models as they walked. Ostrich feather shoes added texture to the billowing garments, as did glossy transparent overlays on dresses and full skirts. The finale received several audible “bravos” from actress Vanessa Redgrave who was sat in the front row, with fellow actress Joely Richardson and costume designer Sandy Powell.
Feben
Central Saint Martins alumna Feben presented a SS24 collection comprised of dresses ranging from printed sheer gowns to Feben’s signature ‘twist’ dress, distinguished by protruding elements of textured fabric. The Ethiopian-Swedish, London-based designer printed the silhouette of her own body in brown or yellow on a minimalist white sleeveless dress – giving a whole new meaning to “throwing oneself into one’s work”.
16Arlington
Designer Marco Capaldo’s SS24 show for 16Arlington was entitled “There is no such thing as a bad coincidence”. Guests were individually seated on white cubes which snaked around the room, creating a maze-like path for the cast of models. The label doubled down on its recent introduction of leather handbags, in red patent and white leather, as well as oversized, belted clutches. Elsewhere, the collection saw plenty of sharp tailoring as the brand continues to evolve from its initial party focus. Well-cut jackets and pleated trousers were shown on men and women, in charcoal grey and black. Staying true to its roots, a smattering of sequins ran throughout the collection, but crept in strongly towards the end. Silver discs hung all over low rise skirts and strap tops, as worn by model and activist Adwoa Aboah who closed the show.
Clemmie Harris, head of women’s and childrenswear at Harrods, told Drapers: “I really loved the newer direction of 16 Arlington it felt like an evolution for the brand but all whilst staying true to [its] aesthetic. There was more daywear than ever before and executed in a totally wearable way; a wash of ivory, grey and black where each piece felt entirely special and elevated through the use of clever fabrications playing with volume and subtle detailing. I absolutely loved this collection and think the loyal 16 Arlington customer will too.”
Labrum SS24
Labrum
For the staging of his SS24 collection showcase, Labrum founder and creative director Foday Dumbuya chose the former headquarters of the early-20th century Port of London Authority – currently the Four Seasons Hotel in Tower Hill – where immigrants arriving in London had to pass through to obtain right-to-work documentation. Having reintroduced womenswear at February’s London Fashion Week AW23, Dumbuya strengthened the category for SS24 with new iterations of its signature suiting – waistcoat and trousers or skirt co-ords – in geometric prints and a multi-tiered burgundy gown. Standout pieces in menswear included blue, red and olive-green knitted vests with coordinating headwear, white double-breasted blazers with matching slim-line trousers and a navy jacquard suit worn by former England national team football player Ian Wright, who opened the show with his first foray into catwalk modelling. As part of the presentation, Labrum debuted its collaboration with sportswear giant Adidas in the form of limited-edition Samba trainers.
Ashley Williams
As announced in August, designer Ashley Williams returned to the runway with support from Fashion East after a two year hiatus. A loyal legion of fans turned up in North London to welcome her back including fashion personality Alexa Chung, Euphoria actress Chloe Cherry and streetwear brand Palace founder Lev Tanju, who is also Williams’ partner. The dramatic concrete setting of Collins Music Hall saw a grim reaper style figure open the show, complete with hooded cloak and wooden staff. The collection was quintessentially Williams — caps emblazoned with “I heart me”, Peter Pan collar dresses and patterned fuzzy knitwear were all styled with Ugg boots, layered belts and knee length wigs. Williams has never taken herself too seriously, although a T-shirt with the words “You must die to be born again” felt dark, especially considering she cited personal reasons behind the brand’s hiatus. Regardless, the show’s finale was celebrated with resounding applause, whoops and cheers from the audience, whose appetite for her tongue-in-cheek designs and finger on the pulse styling was firmly satiated.
Sunday 17 September
Masha Popova
Ukrainian designer Masha Popova opened Sunday’s presentations with a dirt track racing-inspired presentation at the Old Selfridges Hotel’s Newgen space, featuring her signature muddy tyre track prints on Y2K-inspired low-rise denim in shades of lilac, blue and olive green, worn with scarf halter tops or a sheer white graphic T-shirt.
JE Cai SS24
J E Cai
Popova’s ode to the Noughts was followed by J E Cai’s tailoring masterclass at Southbank’s OXO Tower. Featuring delicate shades of ivory and powder blue on clean lines and an emphasis on modularity – where zippers and buttons can be adjusted to create unique fastening combinations – the Chinese-born Royal College of Art alumna presented a timeless collection of versatile looks.
Tove SS24
Tove
It was newcomer Tove’s second season showing at London Fashion Week. Set in Southbank’s Hayward Gallery, the clean white interior reflected the quiet luxury of the collection. Tonal suiting and long line dresses were offset by voluminous outerwear, with statement trenches in white lace and yellow tartan. Models clasped handbags in the form of oversized clutches, featuring knot detailing in satin fabric. Pops of red were seen in flat mules, which served as the label’s debut into footwear, being handcrafted in Portugal and Italy. The two founders were previously heads of design and buying at Topshop, meaning they have a thorough knowledge of the contemporary womenswear consumer.
Sinead Gorey SS24
Sinead Gorey
Designer Sinead Gorey made her London Fashion Week debut for SS24, with an on schedule show on the afternoon of Sunday, 17 September. Founded in 2019 with support from the BFC, its aesthetic is largely based on rave culture with current stockists including Selfridges, Flannels and Ssense. For this collection, Gorey took inspiration from 1990s London and Geri Halliwell from The Spice Girls. Models wore Union Jack knee high leather boots, produced in collaboration with Buffalo, accompanied by matching corset tops, bustle skirts and even denim bikini sets. Continuing the theme of British icons, a pair of jeans featured an all over photographic print of Kate Moss at Glastonbury festival in 2005. Elsewhere, the collection leaned heavily on colourful lace body-con catsuits and dresses, perfect for the brand’s party-loving customers.
Yuhan Wang
Back at the Newgen space, London-based Chinese designer Yuhan Wang showcased a playful collection of white lace looks, ranging from bloomers and knee-high socks to breezy summer dresses with strawberry and cat motifs. Standout pieces included a deconstructured straw-hem asymmetrical skirt and top set as well as a blue fishing net dress embellished with seashells.
KNWLS
Fresh off the launch of her much hyped collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier which launched at New York Fashion Week last week, Charlotte Knowles’ namesake label took to the London Fashion Week stage on Sunday evening. EuroJournal green and chocolate brown rubble covered the floor of the long-stretching runway, hinting at the collection to come. Distressed leather jackets, corsets and thigh high boots were all shown in both colourways, accessorised with patterned headscarves and “fang” shaped handbags. Swinging beaded dresses and block coloured tangerine looks also featured on the runway. Appearances from internet sensation Mia Khalifa and dancer Tilly XXX got the audience whooping and cheering, making perfect casting choices for the brand’s Y2K aesthetic.
